Hiking the Right Way - Return to the Pennine Way

On Cauldron Snout in 2015

Having decided to walk Wainwright’s Pennine Journey, I began the usual process of reading about the walk and tracing the route on OS maps, something that I think the majority of hikers would agree is one of the most enjoyable parts of any long walk. In 2014, I set off to hike the Pennine Way, having barely recovered from a bout of shingles and once underway, soon realised that I was really not in a fit state for such a long and strenuous undertaking and reluctantly stopped walking at Keld. 

The following year, having spent many weeks training, I set off once again with a friend from Edale and over the following fifteen days, I had my most enjoyable long-distance hiking experience to date. 

Although my friend was forced to pull out at Middleton in Teesdale, I continued alone and after more than ten exhilarating hours battling the elements across the Cheviots on the last long day, I arrived in Kirk Yetholm from Byrness, my mind a mixture of elation and sadness that this superb hike was finished. 

On Malham Cove

I have many fond memories of the walk and as I pored over the OS maps, looking at the route of Wainwright’s Pennine Journey, I suddenly realised that I was continually following the line of the Pennine Way rather than the Wainwright walk, which I constantly pushed to the back of my mind as I relived my Pennine Way experiences at various points along the dotted line on the map, pausing to recall incidents as my mind drifted back to that memorable trek.

It suddenly dawned on me that, much as Wainwright’s walked appealed, it was the Pennine Way that was firing my imagination and I came to the conclusion that I would rather attempt the UK's oldest National Trail again before walking Wainwright's 1938 hike. Having made the decision to change my plans, I find that I am becoming excited at the prospect of returning to this fantastic trail and plan to set-off from Edale on August 5th, camping as often as possible, supplemented with occasional nights in BnB's. Who knows, I may even get to see The Cheviots this time!

At the Border Hotel, Kirk Yetholm

2021 New Years Eve Channel Update

With the current travel restrictions and virus figures showing no signs of letting up, I currently have no plans for any long hiking trips in 2022, although I am hoping that things may ease at some point in the new year.

During 2021, I have been exploring more of my home island, particularly areas and paths that I am unfamiliar with and his has led me to discover some stunning new walks. Should you be interested in reading about these, check out my other Facebook page 'Tenerife Rambler' or my blog at www.teneriferambler.com

Over the festive period, I watched a couple of superb films about mountain climbing. The first of these 'The Last Mountain' is a moving account of the life of Alison Hargreaves, the first woman to solo summit Everest without oxygen. The film later chronicles her son Tom Ballard's incredible climbing career. This film can be found on BBC I-player

The Last Mountain

The second film, '14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible' is an account of Nepalese climber, Nimsdai Purja's amazing attempt to climb all fourteen of the world's 8,000 metre plus summits in six months. When considering that most single 8,000 metre summit attempts usually take months in planning and execution, climbing all of them in a single season sounds insane. This gripping documentary can be found on Netflix.

14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible

Youtube Channel Update & La Sportiva Jackal 1st Impressions Review

 

Return to the Cape Wrath Trail

Having had, as I assume did others, all of my hiking plans ruined for 2020 by Covid, and also having abandoned my LEJOG hike at Carlisle, I find that the pull of the trail is getting ever stronger as the months pass. Whenever I picture myself getting back on the trail, it is invariably to the Cape Wrath Trail that my attention turns.

Camping alongside the River Oykel

Since my superb 2015 hike along the Pennine Way and the continuation from Kirk Yetholm the following year to Strathcarron during which I followed the first half of the Cape Wrath Trail, I have encountered many problems while hiking.

Loch Ailsh

In 2017, I was forced to pull out of the following section of the hike from Strathcarron to the Cape with illness. Although, I successfully completed the Coast to Coast walk and the South Downs Way the same year after recovering, the start of my Land's End to John O'Groats hike in 2018 ended in Hay on Wye after a catalogue of unfortunate incidents. This bad luck carried over into 2019 when I re-started the hike from Hay on Wye and I eventually finished this section in Carlisle, having walked around 400 miles on each section. 

Loch Ailsh

As I stated in a previous post, I have now decided that my LEJOG walk will become my 'England End to End' walk as I feel that the long delay and uncertainty surrounding the Covid virus, coupled with the many other delays, has compromised the integrity of the hike. Which brings me back to the Cape Wrath Trail.

Climbing above the Oykel River

I first encountered the hike in 1999 when Phil Hinchliffe, one of the authors of the first guidebook, 'North to the Cape' gave a talk for our local ramblers group. Having completed the first section across the tough, remote Knoydart peninsular, I pulled out of the hike feeling unwell.  This retreat has always rankled with me and I looked forward to finally reaching the Cape in 2017 as the finale of my hike from Derbyshire to Cape Wrath but was thwarted yet again around sixty miles from the end with a virus.

Approaching Conival 

With the current situation surrounding the Covid virus, firm plans are impossible to make but I am hoping to return to Fort William in Scotland in May 2021 to restart the Cape Wrath Trail from the beginning.

Looking down to Loch Assynt & Inchnadamph

My last encounter with the trail before retiring with illness in 2017 was a superb day of hiking from Oykel Bridge, having resumed the hike from Strathcarron. Thunderstorms were forecast for the afternoon so I set off from my campsite on the riverbank of the Oykel River opposite the hotel after a night disturbed by constant coughing where I had found sleep difficult. I set off at 5am and hiked in superb weather to Loch Ailsh where I was rewarded with a loch so flat and calm, the surrounding mountains and sky reflected a mirror image on the still water.

Looking back towards Conival 

There then followed a long uphill, trackless hike, towards a pass below the peak of Conival where I had stunning views down towards Loch Assynt and Inchnadamph. I camped alongside the River Traligill at Inchnadamph after a stunning day of hiking through the mountains of the North-West highlands. Here, I spent a really uncomfortable night coughing and shivering and it was this that convinced me I needed to call a halt to the hike, which was particularly galling as I was only around 60 miles from the Cape. These photos were taken on this last day from Oykel Bridge to Inchnadamph. 

The End of the 'End to End'

Setting off from Land's End

2020 has so far been a bit of a let down for many as far as hiking goes and my plans have certainly been disrupted. I started the year with good intentions, climbing some of the high mountains on the island LINK HERE as fitness training for my third, and hopefully final, section of my LEJOG hike that I started in the glorious summer of 2018. All of this was thrown into disarray however with the arrival of the pandemic as I was forced to abandon my plans. 

Cape Cornwall

When I set off from Lands End on that glorious July morning in 2018, my plan was to walk to John O'Groats in a single trip but circumstances dictated otherwise and I broke the walk at Hay-on-Wye in south Wales, returning the following year to complete the hike. 

Sugar Loaf, Black Mountains 

However, I was again the victim of some bad luck when my leg became infected and after two hospital visits, I was forced to stop walking for around nine days while the leg healed as the antibiotics did their work. 

Stoodley Pike on the Pennine Way

This meant that the walk was now split into three and my plans were in place to return to Carlisle, where I had finished section two, in the spring of this year. Then came Covid and all plans went out of the window. 

Offa's Dyke

Having had a number of months to reflect on the situation, I have decided that the integrity of the walk is now compromised along with my enthusiasm for it, so my LEJOG hike will become my 'England End to End' walk. The energy and enthusiasm for the hike that I had when setting off in July 2018 has dissipated and I think that even if I completed the walk, it won't feel, to me at least, that I have walked the UK from End to End. I am however happy that I have walked England End to End in two hikes totalling 788 miles in less than one year. 

Keswick from the Cumbria Way 

Looking back on my hike, despite all of the problems I encountered along the way, I enjoyed some fantastic walking and saw some beautiful scenery. I have included in this post a few of my favourite photos taken along the way. 

Altra Olympus 3.0 - 6 Month Review.

A quick look at my thoughts on the Altra Olympus 3.0 after 6 months of use.

Decathlon Forclaz Trek 700 Air Mattress - 18 Month Update

A brief eighteen month update review of my Decathlon Forclaz 700 Air Mattress with my thoughts having now used it on a number of hiking trips. For a more detailed review, check my original video below.

                                                          https://youtu.be/-nVHp2TwhNQ

Berghaus Fasthike 45 Rucksack - 6 Month Review

A short video giving my opinion of the Berghaus Fast Hike 45 rucksack after using it for around six months. For a more detailed review - https://youtu.be/OtTnMRgkZqQ

LEJOG Memories - Looking back from lockdown

One thing I'm finding difficult about being in 'lockdown' at the moment is the 'memory' posts that automatically flash up on my Facebook profile reminding me what I was doing last year or three years ago etc. This morning, a memory popped up from last year reminding me that a year ago I was hiking around Morecambe Bay to Ulverston on my Land's End to John O'Groats walk. This was part of a slightly convoluted section between the Pennines and the Lake District that took in a large variety of scenery. It was also where I broke one of my hiking 'rules' by taking the train. As I sat in a pub on the seafront in Arnside, looking at the railway viaduct crossing the bay, I studied the map and realised that by taking the train for a short, one station hop over the estuary, I could omit a large loop around to Ulverston saving a least a days walking, possibly two. Ulverston wasn't really on my route as it meant heading south for a while but I had decided I wanted to do the whole of the Cumbria Way, which meant I needed to divert to get to the start. After a six minute train ride, I found myself in Grange over Sands and carried on to Ulverston where I picked up the start of the Cumbria Way, which proved a fitting climax to this section of my hike from Hay on Wye.

Arnside Tower

Leighton Hall

Sawley Abbey

Pendle Hill

View towards Pendle Hill

Gorple Reservoir

Hoad Monument Ulverston

Morecambe Bay

View towards the Lake District

Morecambe Bay 

Cartmel

Hornby Road, Forest of Bowland

Arnside Viaduct

Lockdown Dreams - Future UK Hiking Plans

A brief look at what I've been doing during lockdown, including books I've read and hikes I'm looking at doing in the future 

My Final Hike - Summit of Roque de Los Almendros in Tenerife

Watch Video onYoutube

My Top Ten Hikes - My favourite UK long distance hiking trails.

A run down of my ten favourite long distance hikes in reverse order.

Land's End to John O'Groats 2020 - Base Weight Weigh-In

A brief look and weigh-in of the gear that I will be taking on third leg of my Land's End to John O'Groats walk starting in April

Trekkertent Stealth 1 - Long Term User Review

Southern Upland Way Memories

Hiking in the Crater, The Siete Cañadas Trail, Tenerife

Click here to view on Youtube

A two-day hike and wild camp in the Las Cañadas National Park in Tenerife. The park has an elevation of around 7,000ft/2,130mtrs and is one of the largest calderas in the world being 17 kilometres across at it's widest point.

Berghaus Fast Hike 45 First Impressions

LEJOG Hike 2020 Update

I have now decided that I will resume my LEJOG hike on Wednesday April 15th next year from Carlisle where I finished in May 2019. I always find that once a date has been decided upon, the rest of the planning becomes easier as the walk somehow seems to become more 'real'. I have been buying one or two new pieces of kit and the purchase of a couple more is planned before the start of the hike. I am looking to keep my base weight down below seven kilos this time so will be returning to using my Trekkertent Stealth 1 tent, which weighs in at around 600 grams without pegs. I made this decision based on a combination of weight considerations and also the failure of the door zip on my Geertop Pyramid tent last time out while I was camping at Coniston Water.

Trekkertent Stealth 1 on the Cape Wrath Trail 2016

I have also purchased a new Berghaus Fast Hike 45 litre rucksack for this trip. Although I was reasonably happy with the Montane Ultra-Tour 55 litre I have used on my last few hikes, there were one or two things I didn't like and the Berghuas remedies these issues. I haven't walked with it yet but am looking forward to doing so as it seems to be an excellent lightweight pack, albeit very slightly heavier then the Montane. The shape of the Berghaus is maintained by a wire frame and foam pad, something that the Montane doesn't have. I found that packing the Montane had to be done very carefully for it to maintain it's shape and for it to feel comfortable. I also wanted more and larger external mesh pockets, which the Berghaus has. At 920 grams, it is around 100 grams heavier than the  weight of the Montane, although with many removable components, it can be reduced to as little as 530 grams. 

Berghaus Fast Hike 45

Another new item will be my shoes as for this hike, I will be walking in Altra Olympus 3.0's. I recently made a video explaining why I was giving up walking in my preferred La Sportiva Ultra-Raptors that I have used since 2015. I have come to the conclusion that my feet have changed shape. At first, I thought I was imagining it but having spoken to other walkers about this, it would seem it's not uncommon. My feet appear to have spread wider, which has caused me problems on my last two hikes. After a little research, I discovered Altra shoes. These are different to many shoes in that they have zero drop soles and more importantly, an unusual foot shaped toe box, meaning that the feet can spread out as much as necessary. I originally purchased a pair of Altra Lone Peak 4's, which although being extremely comfortable, didn't in my opinion have enough cushioning for a long hike with a pack. The stack height of the sole on the Olympus is a full 8mm more than on the Lone Peak, which should give plenty of protection over any terrain. I am planning to make video reviews of all three items in the near future. 

Altra Olympus 3.0

Foot Shaped Toe Box

Future Long Distance Hiking Plans

The next long hike I am planning is the third (and hopefully) final section of my Land's End to John O'Groats hike from Carlisle, where I finished in the spring. It was never my intention to split the hike into three parts, I had intended to walk it in one but circumstances dictated otherwise. This section will be approximately 470 miles, so will be the longest of the three sections. My route will roughly be as follows, Carlisle to Annan, mostly on country roads. From Annan, I will follow the Annan Trail to Moffat and if the conditions are good, up to the Devil's Beef Tub. From there, I will follow paths and trackless sections over hills to Biggar and Lanark where I will pick up the Clyde Walkway and Kelvin Way to Milngavie in Glasgow and the start of the West Highland Way to Drymen. From Drymen, my preferred route is the Rob Roy Way to Pitlochry and then through the Cairngorms to Inverness. From Inverness, I intend following the John O'Groats Trail along the coast to the finish. I have alternative routes from Drymen (WHW & GGW) and an inland alternative to the John O'Groats trail and weather will also play a part in my daily route decisions but this is the 'outline' route I have planned. I am hoping that this final section will avoid the problems that have delayed me on the previous two and hopefully, I won't have the need to visit any hospitals on this occasion.

LEJOG 2019 - My 3 Favourite Gear Items

A short video discussing my favourite three gear items from my 2019 Land's End to John O' Groats hike. All three of these items were purchased from Decathlon outdoor suppliers.