Land's End to John O'Groats 2019 - The Gritstone Trail video

LEJOG 2019 - Mapping my Walk

During my walk, I used Viewranger app combined with OS mapping for navigating and recorded my location through the app as I walked. This photo shows a record of locations recorded on the walk between Hay on Wye and Carlisle. In all, I walked 391.77 miles.

LEJOG 2019 - Finale

The day after finishing the walk, as I explored Carlisle's interesting and attractive historical centre, I made a point of asking in the Tourist Information Centre exactly where the Cumbria Way terminated as I couldn't find a terminus marker. I had noticed Cumbria Way markers on the way to the Castle and thought that this would make a great terminus to the walk. My guidebook didn't mention a finish point, unlike the southern end in Ulverston, so I thought the castle would be a great end to not only the Cumbria Way, but also this section of my trek. There was no marker visible when I reached the Castle so I asked in the Tourist Information Centre in the square in the town centre only to be told that it finished outside by the market cross. 'But there are signs pointing to the castle' I said. 'Oh yes, I think one guidebook finishes there' said the bored looking woman behind the desk. So there it is. The long distance walk without a definite finishing point. One thing I was sure of, my long distance walk was over, at least for now.

*UPDATE: September 2020 - I have now decided that my LEJOG walk will finish in Carlisle and become my England End to End walk. For an explanation of my reasons for this check out this link

LEJOG Day's 26 (47) - Caldbeck to Carlisle - May 22nd 2019

I left the village of Caldbeck for my last day on the Cumbria Way and this particular section of my LEJOG hike in clear sunny weather. As I climbed above the village, I had panoramic views of High Pike, the hill I had climbed the previous afternoon and the highest hill on the Cumbria Way. The early part of the walk was a delightful mix of low hills, forest trails and riverside paths. The River Caldew was now sparkling and lively in the morning sun, unlike the more sombre mood it had presented as it had meandered through the previous days lonely hills. The first half of the walk continued in much the same way until the village of Dalston, where the way took on a more urban feel. Here, it became a surfaced cycle track and although it initially still passed through mostly open countryside, the joggers, dog- walkers and cyclists signalled that Carlisle and the end of my walk was now not too far off. Somewhere along the way, as the houses came into view, I lost the Cumbria Way markers but I wasn't too bothered as I knew that I only had to stay on the cycle track and I would arrive at my destination. Soon, I was crossing busy roads in the middle of the city as I made my way to my guesthouse where, with a sigh of relief, I took off my rucksack and shoes for the last time on this trip.

High Pike

LEJOG Day 25 (46) - Keswick to Caldbeck - May 21st 2019

Today was the last day on the Cumbria Way in the Lake District and another superb day's walking. The first part of the walk involved climbing on the lower slopes of Skiddaw before veering off around Lonscale Fell to the remotely situated Skiddaw House youth hostel. This area is known as the 'Back o' Skidda' and marks a transition in the scenery as the rugged mountains give way to huge, rounded hills. Skiddaw House comes as a surprise as it is totally isolated, it's lonely position sheltered by a stand of trees. After a long track through the hills from the hostel, the Way climbs steeply from the Carrock Wolram mine on a very indistinct path alongside a stream to the highest point of the whole Cumbria Way at the summit of High Pike at 658 metres. The views from here were superb and included the Pennines, Blencathra, Skiddaw and across the Solway Firth to Scotland . After absorbing the view from the summit, I headed for Caldbeck where I am spending the last night on the Cumbria Way and also this current trip before completing the final fifteen miles along the River Caldew into Carlisle tomorrow .

Leaving Keswick

LEJOG Day's 23 & 24 (44 & 45) - Coniston to Keswick - May 19th & 20th 2019

Day two started with low cloud and drizzle but after walking to Coniston village from the campsite and having breakfast in a cafe, the cloud lifted with the sun even putting in an appearance in the afternoon. The highlight of day two was the exquisitely beautiful Tarn Hows and the ever expanding view of the Coniston Fells. 

Coniston Village

Land's End to John O'Groats 2019 - Welshpool to Mow Cop video

LEJOG Day 22 (43) - Ulverston to Coniston - May 18th 2019

I left Ulverston after taking a selfie or two at the start point monument. This trail started gently through quiet hills and valleys before crossing into the Lake District National Park during the morning and almost immediately the scenery began changing as the Coniston Fells become more and more imposing ahead. On trails such as the Maelor Way and the South Cheshire Way, I regularly chose to hike along quiet country lanes as a way of more easily and quickly getting to my destination with little worry of missing any outstanding scenery and also to avoid the struggle of searching for invisible paths in the many boring fields of wet grass.This was never an issue on the Cumbria Way as the exquisite scenery kept me enthralled and the paths were always easy to follow. As the Old Man of Coniston and surrounding fells became more visible, I eventually descended to Coniston Water towards the end of the day and camped at a fairly busy campsite. The site was full of groups of ´car-campers´ enjoying barbecues and drinking heavily while listening to loud music. I escaped the noise by heading for a local pub for dinner where I watched Manchester City winning the FA cup before heading back to my tent. To be fair to the 'car-campers', they did turn down the music low at around 11pm and I slept quite well in the tent for the first time on this trip.

LEJOG Day's 20 & 21 (41 & 42) - Arnside to Ulverston - May 16th & 17th 2019

Yesterday, was almost a rest day. After deciding I wanted to hike the entire Cumbria Way from Ulverston to Carlisle, I studied the map for some time and decided to take the train from Arnside to Grange over Sands across the estuary. This six minute train ride between the two stops saved a huge looping walk around the top of the estuary and although I wasn't overly happy at taking transport, my desire to walk all of the Cumbira Way overrode my desire to maintain the integrity of the walk. Having alighted from the train, I strolled around the pleasant town of Grange over Sands, stopping at a cafe along the promenade for tea with great  views of Morecambe Bay. I then followed a shoreline path the short distance to Kents Bank where I checked into a hotel for the night.
The walk to Ulverston from Kents Bank was a mostly delightful walk through quiet, low hills and forests, alongside rivers and seashore with great views to Morecambe Bay and the distant Lake District fells. The end of the walk degenerated into a struggle to find my way out of a boggy swamp that was supposed to have a path running through it according to the map. Having decided to turn around, I struggled to find my way out of the swampy woodland and after crashing around for some time, finally located a track leading to a country road into Ulverston. Tomorrow, I start the Cumbria Way to Carlisle.

Village of Cartmel

LEJOG Day 19 (40) - Over Kellet to Arnside - May 15th 2019

After packing up and drying my tent in the warm early morning sun, I made my way towards Arnside, where I planned to stay for the night. The walk was a complete contrast to the previous days high level romp and consisted of quiet lanes, field paths, canal towpaths and woodland trails. I stopped for breakfast in Carnforth and later, as I reached a viewpoint over Leighton Hall, enjoyed excellent views over Morecambe Bay. Passing the ruins of Arnside Tower, I descended to the seafront where I stopped for a welcome cold beer overlooking the sea. I have now walked 305 miles in total.

First view of Morecambe Bay

LEJOG Day 18 (39) - Slaidburn to Over Kellet - May 14th 2019

After a 30k hike today, my feet are now quietly smouldering under the table in the pub. Today was superb, an airy, roller coaster yomp across the fell-tops of the Forest of Bowland on a wide track. I left Slaidburn and was soon struggling to find the path as it disappeared into a really boggy area but after fighting my way through this, I located the track that was to be my route across the Forest of Bowland fells. The weather was superb and allowed me to enjoy the far-reaching views across the fells, with hazy views towards the Yorkshire Three Peaks. After descending to Hornby, I followed quiet country lanes to Over Kellet where I checked into a campsite before strolling (okay hobbling) to the pub. A shorter day tomorrow to Arnside. Carlisle is getting closer!

Leaving Slaidburn

LEJOG Day 16 (37) & 17 (38) - Heptonstall to Slaidburn - May 12th & 13th 2019

The walk from Heptonstall to Kelbrook followed sections of the Pennine Way and Pennine Bridleway National Trails. This was to be my last section of the Pennine Way and I felt a slight pang of regret at my decision not to follow this wonderful trail to the border. The weather was the best so far on the walk and I relished hiking through the remote terrain in the perfect conditions. Passing Gorple Reservoir, I climbed through rough moorland before joining the Pennine Bridleway. As I reached a pass, the ground opened out in front of me and presented me with wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. I romped along the clear track with superb views opening out ahead across the towns of Burnley and Nelson and towards Pendle Hill. After more superb scenery on the Pennine Bridleway, I followed paths to Trawden from where I mostly road walked to Kelbrook, my overnight halt. 

The following day, 

I continued to follow sections of the Pennine Bridleway as well as the Lancashire Way and numerous quiet country lanes as I made my way to Slaidburn. This was more of a transition day across quiet countryside and although I had many good views of Pendle Hill, I missed the open country of the previous day and found the many miles of road walking tiring. Eventually, I arrived at the pretty village of Slaidburn where I was met by a friend and driven to his home in Giggleswick where I was made very welcome by him and his wife.

Distant view o Stoodley Pike

LEJOG Day 15 (36) - Marsden to Heptonstall - May 10th 2019

Yesterday, after the previous challenging day on the Pennine Way, I climbed out of Marsden back onto the moors and picked up the trail again at Standedge. Although the wind was still cold and the skies grey, the day remained dry until near the very end. This part of the Pennine Way follows some gritstone edges and also passes numerous reservoirs. I stopped for lunch at the White House, a pub sitting alone high on the moors on Blackstone Edge before carrying on to Stoodley Pike, a large monument standing on the moors above Hebden Bridge. As I descended to the village, the heavens opened and I arrived dripping wet in nearby Heptonstall after a lung bursting climb to the village. Here, I checked into a pub for two nights to give me a rest day and a chance to explore the area. Overall I walked 20 miles.

Leaving Marsden

LEJOG Day 14 (35) - Hadfield to Marsden - May 9th 2019

The UK climate, the gift that just keeps on giving! After almost a month, the wind is still freezing and feeling more like January than May. Today, I set off from Hadfield (you'll never leave), and headed along the reservoirs of the Longdendale Valley following the Longdendale Trail. The bitterly cold wind whipped up the grey waters of the reservoirs into waves and I wondered what it was going to be like on the hills. Reaching Crowden, I began climbing on the Pennine Way towards Laddow Rocks as the rain got down to business and the wind helped it along, blowing it into me. As I climbed higher, it got worse. And worse. Laddow Rocks is a cliff edge with a very narrow path right on the edge of the cliffs so I paid close attention not to slip. After a good soaking and blasting by the wind, I descended a little and the conditions eased slightly. There is absolutely no shelter along this section of the Pennine Way so you just have to take what is thrown at you. After three tricky river crossings that in normal conditions are a simple step or two on stepping stones, I began the climb to Black Hill. As I entered the mist, the wind and rain returned with a vengeance and I sped past two walkers paused by Soldiers Lump, a trig point on a stone plinth and almost ran down off of the top. I knew I had one more obstacle on my way to Marsden, the river at Dean Clough. This is a steep ravine and normally, the river is crossed by simply stepping over it. Today, it was a more serious undertaking and I searched for a crossing point before wading into the icy water at the narrowest point. All that remained was the final climb to the road which I accomplished with surprising ease. The walk wasn't finished but I knew from Wessenden Head that it was now all downhill through the Wessenden Valley to Marsden, where I checked into the pub I am now staying in and sank gratefully into a hot bath with a cup of hot tea. I walked 15.5 miles in 6 hours.

LEJOG Days 12 & 13 (33 & 34) - Wincle to Hadfield - May 7th & 8th 2019

After a day with my friend Nigel, I was back to walking solo as I headed for Tegg´s Nose on the Gritstone Trail. The weather was again cold and grey but as the route skirted the western edge of the Peak District, the scenery became progressively more spectacular. Having lost the route of the Gritstone Trail towards the end of the previous day, I navigated my way back onto the route and picked up the markers again shortly before the climb onto Tegg´s Nose. This steep climb on to the summit afforded fantastic views of the surrounding countryside and I spent some time exploring the remains of the millstone grit quarry. The day became a series of climbs and descents to the village of Disley, where I was picked up by Nigel. 

Shutlingsloe

LEJOG Day 11 (32) - The Gritstone Trail - Mow Cop to Wincle - May 6th 2019

Today was the start of the Gritstone Trail and it proved to be a far more scenic and interesting walk than the previous two trails. I was joined today by a friend who is providing me with accommodation for a few nights in Macclesfield. The views today were at times outstanding and from the summit of 'The Cloud' we had great 360 degree views that included Jodrell Bank and Kinder Scout. Towards the end of the day, we lost the Gritstone Trail signs and head for the village of Wincle, where we enjoyed a beer before being picked up by my friends wife.The weather wasn't the greatest as it was quite cold with occasional showers but this didn't detract from a really enjoyable walk. Tomorrow, I will be following the remainder of the Gritstone Trail alone as I head towards the Pennine Way.

Me on the summit of The Cloud

LEJOG Days 9 & 10 (30 & 31) - South Cheshire Way - Whitchurch to Mow Cop

May 4th & 5th - South Cheshire Way

Having resumed my hike after taking antibiotics and resting my leg, I continued the walk from Whitchurch, where I had caught the train to Stoke on Trent over a week earlier. For the last two days, I have been following the South Cheshire Way but this trail, as with the Maelor Way, while useful to link Offa's Dyke with the Pennine Way, has little to recommend it. So far, it has consisted mostly of farmland, field after field of calf deep grass, often with no obvious path. Yesterday, I walked 23.5 miles from Whitchurch to Crewe, today I did 14 miles to Mow Cop. The South Cheshire Way is done with now, tomorrow I start the Gritstone Trail which I hope will prove to be a more scenic experience.

Camping in Whitchurch before setting off again