Showing posts with label lands end. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lands end. Show all posts

Thursday, 24 September 2020

The End of the 'End to End'

Setting off from Land's End

2020 has so far been a bit of a let down for many as far as hiking goes and my plans have certainly been disrupted. I started the year with good intentions, climbing some of the high mountains on the island LINK HERE as fitness training for my third, and hopefully final, section of my LEJOG hike that I started in the glorious summer of 2018. All of this was thrown into disarray however with the arrival of the pandemic as I was forced to abandon my plans. 

Cape Cornwall

When I set off from Lands End on that glorious July morning in 2018, my plan was to walk to John O'Groats in a single trip but circumstances dictated otherwise and I broke the walk at Hay-on-Wye in south Wales, returning the following year to complete the hike. 

Sugar Loaf, Black Mountains 

However, I was again the victim of some bad luck when my leg became infected and after two hospital visits, I was forced to stop walking for around nine days while the leg healed as the antibiotics did their work. 

Stoodley Pike on the Pennine Way

This meant that the walk was now split into three and my plans were in place to return to Carlisle, where I had finished section two, in the spring of this year. Then came Covid and all plans went out of the window. 

Offa's Dyke

Having had a number of months to reflect on the situation, I have decided that the integrity of the walk is now compromised along with my enthusiasm for it, so my LEJOG hike will become my 'England End to End' walk. The energy and enthusiasm for the hike that I had when setting off in July 2018 has dissipated and I think that even if I completed the walk, it won't feel, to me at least, that I have walked the UK from End to End. I am however happy that I have walked England End to End in two hikes totalling 788 miles in less than one year. 

Keswick from the Cumbria Way 

Looking back on my hike, despite all of the problems I encountered along the way, I enjoyed some fantastic walking and saw some beautiful scenery. I have included in this post a few of my favourite photos taken along the way. 

Sunday, 13 October 2019

Future Long Distance Hiking Plans

The next long hike I am planning is the third (and hopefully) final section of my Land's End to John O'Groats hike from Carlisle, where I finished in the spring. It was never my intention to split the hike into three parts, I had intended to walk it in one but circumstances dictated otherwise. This section will be approximately 470 miles, so will be the longest of the three sections. My route will roughly be as follows, Carlisle to Annan, mostly on country roads. From Annan, I will follow the Annan Trail to Moffat and if the conditions are good, up to the Devil's Beef Tub. From there, I will follow paths and trackless sections over hills to Biggar and Lanark where I will pick up the Clyde Walkway and Kelvin Way to Milngavie in Glasgow and the start of the West Highland Way to Drymen. From Drymen, my preferred route is the Rob Roy Way to Pitlochry and then through the Cairngorms to Inverness. From Inverness, I intend following the John O'Groats Trail along the coast to the finish. I have alternative routes from Drymen (WHW & GGW) and an inland alternative to the John O'Groats trail and weather will also play a part in my daily route decisions but this is the 'outline' route I have planned. I am hoping that this final section will avoid the problems that have delayed me on the previous two and hopefully, I won't have the need to visit any hospitals on this occasion.


Thursday, 20 December 2018

Land's End to John O'Groats 2019



Having halted my Land's End to John O'Groats walk in the summer, I was anxious to get back on the trail ASAP to enable me to complete the entire walk within less than one year. The original plan was to walk the whole route in one but due to unforeseen circumstances, I decided to temporarily halt the walk in Hay-on- Wye. This time, rather than setting off in the summer, I am planning to start hiking in the middle of April 2019. There are two reasons for choosing April, one being that it will mean that I finish the walk in well under a year and also, I should hopefully finish before the main midge season starts in Scotland. I also intend wild camping more often on this trip. Although I camped a fair bit in the summer, I mostly used official campsites as I found locating wild campsites in the areas I was walking through difficult. 


Now however, I will be walking through more remote hill country so I can avoid using too many campsites, some of which in the summer in the West Country were grossly overpriced. My route will be roughly as follows, Offa's Dyke path to Chirk followed by a combination of the Maelor Way, South Cheshire Way, Gritstone Trail along with a few more minor trails to reach the Pennine Way near Hayfield. Having walked the Pennine Way in 2015, I am not interested in walking it again so soon so will be leaving it fairly quickly to follow various trails including the Pennine Bridleway to the Forest of Bowland. After reaching the Lake District I will walk the Cumbria Way to Carlisle, then a combination of the Annandale Way, West Highland Way, Rob Roy Way, East Highland Trail and the John O'Groat's Trail to the end.

Saturday, 10 November 2018

Lands End to John O'Groats hike Part 8



Days 19 to 21 of my Lands End to John O'Groats hike from Chepstow to Hay on Wye proved to be my last on the trail for now but also passed through some of the most beautiful and stunning scenery of the hike

Monday, 29 October 2018

Land's End to John O'Groats hike Pt. 7

After 4 days spent with my wife visiting friends in south Devon, I return to the trail with new (bigger) shoes and new glasses as I head for Bridgwater

 

Friday, 26 October 2018

Lands End to John O'Groats - Walking the South West Coast Path


Engine houses on the South West Coast Path taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats walk 2018

One of the things I most regret about my Land's End to John O'Groats walk in the summer was my decision to walk the Lands End Trail in preference to the South West Coast Path. My plan was to walk from Land's End to St. Ives using the SWCP before heading inland to pick up the LET. My reason for this was that I thought that I would make faster progress taking a fairly direct route through Cornwall and Devon. 

Porthmeor Beach, St. Ives on the South West Coast Path taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats walk 2018


This was a decision I came to regret. The LET proved to be a time consuming, frustratingly overgrown and irritatingly difficult route consisting of mostly local footpaths knitted together to form a 'trail'. There were numerous times when the path simply disappeared or didn't appear at all. On one occasion, I spent some time trying to smash my way through an overgrown path using my two trekking poles but in the end, gave up and retreated back to the previous village and road walked around the obstruction.

St.Ives harbour on the South West Coast Path taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats walk 2018


Even when climbing the slopes to the summit of Brown Willy on Bodmin Moor, I never located a path despite being on the route I had downloaded onto my GPS. Instead, I found myself ploughing my way through waist deep ferns as I struggled to the summit. Eventually, I gave up trying to follow it and instead followed the myriad of tiny rural lanes that criss-cross the south-west. Much as I dislike road walking, this was preferable to the frustrating struggle to stay on the LET.

Cape Cornwall on the South West Coast Path taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats walk 2018



In contrast, the sections of the South West Coast Path I walked were simply stunning. The first section from Land's End to St.Ives was pretty tough but traversed some magnificent scenery, including some exquisite, remote white sand beaches, accessible only to those prepared to walk some distance from the nearest road. I spent the night at the end of my first day wild camping alongside the path just after Zennor and this was my favourite campsite of the trip. Just yards from the shore, I was lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves after enjoying dinner outside my tent as I watched the sunset over the sea. Over the next few days, I switched between the SWCP and the LET but most of the good memories are of the SWCP.


Portheras Cove on the South West Coast Path taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats walk 2018


I was fortunate that I was walking in one of the most memorable UK summers for many years and as I romped along the coast, I looked forward to cresting each headland as I knew that as I reached the top, I would be greeted with yet another awesome stretch of golden, sandy beach stretching for miles, the rollers breaking on the shore creating a scene more reminiscent of an idyllic Caribbean island.

Perranporth on the South West Coast Path taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats walk 2018


In weather the UK experienced in the summer, there can't be anywhere in the world more staggeringly beautiful. By the time I reached Padstow, I decided to head inland again and left the SWCP for the last time. With the benefit of hindsight, it is a decision I would not make again.

Saturday, 20 October 2018

Wednesday, 17 October 2018

Alone Again Or? - Solo Hiking Land's End to John O'Groats

Cheddar LEJOG signpost taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018
Much as I like hiking alone, there are times when it is nice to have some company, particularly on a hike such as my recent Lands End to John O'Groats hike where you are unlikely to meet anyone following the same route. I was therefore pleased when Mike, a friend of mine who lives near the village of Cheddar in Somerset, joined me for a day's hike over the Mendips. Initially, we followed the road out of Cheddar up through the gorge, the spectacular cliffs towering above us as we watched the wild goats clambering up the steeps rocky walls.

Wild goats in Cheddar gorge on my lands end to john o'groats hike
Wild Goats in Cheddar Gorge

Cheddar gorge on my lands end to john o'groats hike

My friend Mike on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018

Near the top of the climb, we left the road and headed into the hills in the direction of Beacon Batch, the highest point of the Mendips, from where we had stunning views across the Bristol Channel into Wales and the surrounding countryside. After spending some time on the summit, we descended to Blagdon Lake before following the Monarch's Way to the village of Barrow Common where we relaxed with a couple of beers before Mike's wife collected us and drove us back to their house where I was treated to a great dinner and more beer, a perfect end to a great day's walk.

Me on Beacon Batch on my lands end to john o'groats hike

Sign on Beacon Batch, highest point of the Mendip Hills taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018

My friend Mike on Beacon Batch, highest point of the Mendip Hills, taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018

Descending Beacon Batch taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018
On Beacon Batch, highest point of the Mendips

Blagdon Lake, taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018
Blagdon Lake
The following day, as Mike waved me off from our previous day's finish point, I began to ponder my preference for solo hiking. Much as I had enjoyed walking with Mike, I was glad to be alone again, making my own way through the countryside. This contradiction is something that I ponder often when walking as, although I love walking alone, I also like to have someone to share the trail with, even if it's simply meeting another hiker doing the same trail or chatting to them in a campsite or pub in the evening.
Clifton Suspension Bridge on my lands end to john o'groats hike

Clifton Suspension Bridge  taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018
Passing Clifton Suspension Bridge in heavy rain
M4 Bridge over the Severn taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018

Severn Road Bridge over the Severn into Wales  taken on my Land's End to John O'Groats hike 2018
M4 & Severn road bridges
Now, having enjoyed Mike's company and hospitality the previous day and feeling re-energised, I resumed my Land's End to John o'Groats walk and hiked around Bristol in torrential rain before heading along the banks of the Severn and on into Wales.

Sunday, 14 October 2018

Lands End to John O'Groats hike Part 5

Days 8 & 9 of my LEJOG hike. After a three day lay off in Launceston for treatment on my infected toe, I return to Jamaica Inn to recommence my hike.

 

Tuesday, 2 October 2018

Gear I used on my LEJOG hike

A brief overview of some of the main items of gear used on the 400 miles I walked on my LEJOG hike in July and August 2018 between Lands End and Hay on Wye


Tuesday, 25 September 2018

Land's End to John O'Groats Part 3 - Porthtowan to Newquay

Part Three of my LEJOG walk as I abandon the Lands End Trail and head back to the South West Coast Path between Porthtowan and Newquay. It is on this stretch where I encounter the first of the numerous problems faced on my walk.


Thursday, 20 September 2018

Land's End to John O'Groats Pt.2 - Zennor to St.Hilary

Day two of my LEJOG hike from my wild campsite on the SWCP near Zennor to a campsite in St.Hilary. It was today that I discovered that my decision to head inland and follow the Lands End Trail may not be such a great idea - 27k


Tuesday, 18 September 2018

Monday, 3 September 2018

LEJOG Afterthoughts

My route so far

Having halted my LEJOG walk at Hay on Wye and having had time to reflect on the numerous problems that beset me along the way, I thought I would do a breakdown of the trip including thoughts on the pieces of kit that I thought performed really well and those that didn´t. 
My reasons for calling a halt to the walk weren´t because of any physical problem, all of the problems I suffered in the early part of the walk had been resolved by the time I reached Hay-on-Wye. 
As I said in a previous post, during a phone call, my wife had expressed concern over the amount of time the walk was going to take when taking into account all of the delays and this combined with my concerns over her health meant I wanted to be present at some doctors appointments she had coming up. Also, because of the amount of days I had been forced to take off, the funds I had for the walk had diminished substantially, even though I was still only in South Wales. 
Overall, discounting the non-walking days, I was quite pleased with the distance I covered, which averaged around 19 miles a day. I hope to be able to return in the spring or early summer of 2019 to continue the walk.


Walk Statistics

Total Distance Walked - 396.5 miles/634k
Total Days - 34 days
Total Days Walked - 21
Total Days Camped  - 12 (3 wild)
Average Daily Distance -18.8 miles /30.2k
Longest Day - Barrow Common to Chepstow - 34.1 miles/54.6k
Shortest Day - Glasbury to Hay on Wye - 5.5 miles/8.8k

Biggest Gear Failures

La Sportiva Ultra Raptors - Amazingly, these were my biggest problem in the early part of the walk. I say this because I have walked hundreds of miles in the same shoe/sock combination in the past with zero problems. In the first few days, I developed a large blister on the ball of my left foot, which burst causing me quite a lot of discomfort. I also developed a blister on the toe next to my big toe and various other hotspots all on my left foot. The other problem was a painful and swollen big toe, also on my left foot, which eventually became infected. Despite having walked not only in the same brand but in the same pair of shoes in the past, my left foot felt too big for the shoe. I can only put this down to the fact that the Raptors are quite a close fit and with the very hot and humid weather in the UK at the time, can only assume that my feet swelled in the heat. 



Decathlon Forclaz 500 shirt - I have to say that generally, I love Decathlon´s clothing and indeed, most of my hiking clothing comes from the store but this shirt was a mistake. It was sold as an item to be worn during long treks but I should have been alerted to the fact that the composition of the fabric was 70% cotton & 30% polyester. At times, my back was drenched in sweat and after two or three days, large light ´streaks´ had developed in the dark blue fabric where my rucksack straps sat. I binned it after about four days. I should have known better than to use a piece of gear that I hadn't  previously worn on a walk.

Mountain Warehouse Active Trainer Socks - I bought these as I thought lighter, thinner socks would help with the foot problems I was having by cooling them down and giving me more room in my shoes. They were very lightweight with a mesh top and because I purchased another item, I got both pairs for half price. I didn´t expect too much from them but I must say I expected them to last more than the few days that one pair did. Whilst pulling them up,  my thumb went straight through the back of the sock.

Biggest Gear Successes

Wild Camp end of Day 1 on the SWCP

Geertop Pyramid Peak 1 man tent -  I totally loved this. I had limited experience of using this tent before setting off but this is now firmly my first choice tent. Having recently been using my Trekkertent Stealth 1 on walks, I decided I wanted more space and two entrances into the tent. I also wanted a side entrance tent as the Stealth is front entrance, which I found difficult, particularly when getting out of it as you sleep with your back to the door. The Geertop was superb however. The luxury of having two doors and vestibules was a revelation as I could put my rucksack and wet gear in one and use the other for getting in and out and stowing my food and cooking gear. The tent uses trekking poles and I found the 'A' frame set-up very solid and although I never experienced any really wild weather, it stood up well to heavy rain and some blustery winds. The only negatives I found were the tiny zipper pulls, which I resolved with the addition of some ties. I also found that the two large ventilation panels at either end need setting up with care to avoid letting rain in. Otherwise, I can see this being my go-to tent for some time to come.



Mountain Warehouse Rash Vest - I bought this as a replacement after binning my Decathlon shirt. To be honest, I didn´t realise it was a 'rash vest' at the time, I just liked the feel of the material. It proved to be a great shirt and never got noticeably damp, even in the very hot conditions. I also liked the fact that even after walking in it for a couple of hot days, it still remained largely free from odours.

Viewranger App - Used this exclusively for navigation in conjunction with my Samsung Tablet and phone. A brilliant app

Samsung Galaxy Tab A 7" - Performed superbly in conjunction with Viewranger, which I had loaded with OS Landranger maps.

Decathlon Kalenji Trail Rain Jacket - Kalenji is the Decathlon brand name of their running gear and this lightweight rain jacket weighs in at just 250 grams and packs down really small. Although for the early part of the walk, I didn´t need it as the UK was in the middle of a heatwave, I loved the lightweight feel of this jacket when I did have to use it, which kept me dry in some torrential rain near Bristol.

La Sportiva Ultra Raptors - Perversely, these feature in both the Success and Failures list! My wife delivered a brand new pair of these trail shoes to me in Devon in a half size bigger than the ones I had started off with and all of my foot problems vanished as I enjoyed hiking in them as I have over the past few years.

Biggest Mistakes


Filtering water - Carelessness when filtering river water while wild camping was, I believe, the reason for my severe bout of sickness and diarrhoea in South Molton. While collecting and filtering water from the river at my wild camp on the Tarka Trail, which was surrounded by cattle fields, I stupidly re-inflated my dirty water bottle by putting it to my mouth a number of times. I´m convinced this is what caused my illness.

The Magnificent South West Coast Path

Leaving the SWCP - Although easy in hindsight, my choice of route, which was to go inland and follow the Land´s End Trail, was a mistake. I had assumed that taking a more direct route inland would be shorter and easier but the opposite proved to be the case. Invisible and absurdly overgrown paths, poor or no waymarking etc. made this ´trail' an annoying, time consuming irritation. At one point, while following the exact route using GPS on the slopes of Brown Willy on Bodmin, the so-called LET led me through waist high ferns strewn with granite boulders with absolutely no sign of a path. I arrived at the summit hot and very irritated after a tiring ´bushwack´ through the overgrown hillside. Were I to start LEJOG again, I would stick with the magnificent SWCP, even though the early section from Lands End to St. Ives proved to be tough walking.

The Black Mountains in the Brecon Beacons

Best Walking

As suggested above, the SWCP was simply majestic. I really regret not sticking with this all of the way to Minehead. The Black Mountains section of the Brecon Beacons was also superb, with really scenic and remote feeling mountain country. Other highlights included the Wye Valley Walk from Chepstow to Monmouth, the Bodmin section (in spite of the LET) from Delford Bridge to Jamaica Inn over Brown Willy, highest point in Cornwall and the Mendips, including Cheddar Gorge and Beacon Batch, the highest point of the range.

Summit of Brown Willy


Sunday, 24 June 2018

The Weigh-in

My worldy possessions for a couple of months
After months of agonising over weight, I have finally decided on what I am going to take on my LEJOG hike. Well, almost! There are still one or two small items that I may or may not take but they only weigh a hundred grams or so and won´t make that much difference to my final base weight. For anyone unfamiliar with the term, base weight is everything in your backpack minus consumables such as food, drink, gas and toiletries and I have managed to get mine down to 7.5 kilos. I could get it even lower but I feel that there is a fine line between reducing weight to make the hiking easier and comfort/safety. Ultra-lightweight hikers strive to keep their baseweight below 5 kilos and I can see that this is achievable, particularly if you live in a dry, warm climate but the UK is not exactly known for these type of conditions so a little more equipment is probably a wise choice. Plus, there are one or two 'comfort' choices I have made where I could probably have opted for something lighter or nothing at all.

Thursday, 31 May 2018

A Roller Coaster walk

The Lands End Trail

Many years ago, while holidaying in St.Ives, Cornwall, I purchased a small walking guidebook written by the owners of a seafront shop making and selling ornamental glass items. As I chatted with the shop owner, she recommended one of the walks in the book which was an eight mile section of the South West Coast Path from Zennor to St.Ives. 'It will take you 4 hours', she said, and as we left the shop I inwardly scoffed that such a short distance would take us that long.