Showing posts with label kirk yetholm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label kirk yetholm. Show all posts

Sunday, 20 January 2019

Pennine Way Memories

resting on bleaklow head while hiking the pennine way 2015

On Bleaklow

In the New Year, my thoughts tend to be about my plans for walks in the year ahead but recently, as well as making plans to continue my LEJOG hike in April, I have been looking back through my blogs of some of my favourite walks. I have walked in many spectacular areas and enjoyed most of them, but to date, I think my favourite thru-hike was the Pennine Way. I have tackled this twice, once in 2014 when, because of a bout of shingles contracted around three weeks before I starting the hike, I was forced to retire just before the halfway point at Keld. In hindsight, I really wasn't well enough to attempt the walk as I had barely recovered from the illness and I reluctantly finally arrived at this conclusion and retired with the intention of returning to Keld to continue the walk the following year. 


resting on whitely pike while hiking the pennine way 2015

Whitely Pike

As it happened, I re-started the walk from Edale in 2015, setting off with a friend who unfortunately got injured and had to pull out at Middleton in Teesdale. From this point, and as the Pennine Way headed into the more remote terrain of the Northern Pennines, I found my enjoyment of the walk increasing with every mile. I relished the lonely, wild moors and hills and found that I disagreed profoundly with the many opinions I had read that this was a boring route across featureless bogs with little to recommend it. For me, it had that extra ingredient of wildness that simply wasn't present on other long distance hikes I had walked previously. By the time I reached the Cheviots, the weather turned and I spent over ten hours on the final day battling a combination of driving rain, mist and flooded peat bogs as I crossed the lonely hills to the finish point at Kirk Yetholm. I saw only one other person on this section and despite the challenging conditions, I thought it was a fantastic finale to what had for me been the best through hike I had ever walked. 

At the end of the pennine way 2015

Kirk Yetholm

I have since walked most of the Cape Wrath Trail, which is also a spectacularly remote and tough route, but I have yet to do this as a continuous hike. I will re-acquaint myself briefly with the Pennine Way in the spring as I continue my hike to John O'Groats as I intend walking the section from Mill Hill to Gorple reservoir before heading off on a more westerly route towards the Lake District. I know however, that when I leave the Pennine Way, a part of me will be fondly remembering that epic trip along this iconic trail in 2015. 

At the border hotel on the pennine way 2015

Kirk Yetholm


Saturday, 29 April 2017

My Scottish National Trail - Return to the Highlands


In around two weeks, I am returning to Strathcarron to continue my walk that effectively began in 2015 in Edale with the start of the Pennine  Way. Having completed this epic trail, I decided to continue the hike last year by returning to Kirk Yetholm and continuing the walk for around 310 miles across Scotland via a section of the Scottish National Trail, the West Highland Way and finally  finishing at Strathcarron on the Cape Wrath Trail. It is this last trail that I am returning to complete on the 22nd May. I have already had a tough baptism on this trail through Morar and Knoydart and I am now itching to get back to complete what is considered the UK's toughest hike.

Tuesday, 23 June 2015

La Sportiva Ultra Raptors

In 2011, I hiked the UK's Coast to Coast trail, which is a 190 mile route that crosses three National Parks on it's way from the Cumbrian coast to the North Yorkshire coast. Towards the end of the hike, the weather turned and we walked for the last three days in rain, which was often torrential. On the first of these days across the Cleveland Hills, we stopped for a break in a cafe where there were numerous Coast to Coast hikers sheltering from the appalling conditions. As we sat in the steamy atmosphere of the cafe, drying off and enjoying hot drinks and food, I realised that all of us, without exception were soaked to the skin. This was despite the fact that we were all wearing waterproof clothing, mostly Goretex, from various reputable manufacturers, ranging from mid-range brands to the most expensive. It occurred to me then that for all the manufacturers claims that none of the so called 'waterproof' clothing was coping with the amount of water being thrown at it. Sure, some of it was undoubtedly sweat that was building up - this was July after all - and not escaping through the sodden garments but that wouldn't account for the totally saturated base layers and wet trousers under the waterproof over-trousers. It was during these three days that I realised that 'waterproof' is a nebulous term. Despite the manufacturers claims, no garments can keep out water for long if enough is thrown at it for sustained periods. There are many ways that water gets under waterproof gear, through sleeves, necks, over the tops of boots, zips, and also through the outer layer of a waterproof item that is wetting out. Of course, gear manufacturers are keen to talk about the need for proofing their clothing so the water beads up and rolls off allowing the fabric to perform at it's most 'breathable'. This is another term that is bandied about my the manufacturers but again this is a nebulous term. A breathable garment will still get wet inside if the conditions are 'right' and the amount of perspiration overloads the fabric. One of the biggest problems with multi-day hiking in bad weather is wet boots. Boots with a 'waterproof' membrane, once soaked, take an age to dry so you are likely to be putting on damp or wet boots each day unless you are fortunate enough to have access to drying facilities. After I returned from the Coast to Coast walk, I began questioning the accepted 'wisdom' of hiking in full waterproof gear and waterproof hiking boots. I began reading various blogs on the internet and was surprised to discover that many other hikers had come to similar conclusions to myself, particularly with regard to footwear. The days of long distance hikers clomping around in heavy leather, goretex lined boots, are being challenged by a new wave of lightweight hikers who appear to have come to the same conclusion that I had. When walking in the rain just accept that you are going to get wet! 
Based on my experiences on the Coast to Coast and what I had subsequently read, I recently put this theory to the test while hiking the Pennine Way. This 268 mile National Trail is the countries oldest trail and has something of a reputation as being an arduous slog through endless, featureless peat covered bogs where it virtually always rains. This coupled with the fact that fell walking legend, Alfred Wainwright, when writing his guide to the trail had a torrid time with the conditions, only added to this negative reputation, which in my opinion, having now walked it, is totally unwarranted. 

I had decided that for the hike, I would walk in non-waterproof, trail running shoes with fairly thin, quick drying socks. I would also walk in lightweight, quick drying shorts and take no waterproof trousers as I now really do not like walking in long trousers, having walked solely in shorts for a number of years. I had purchased some La Sportiva Ultra Raptors for the Pennine Way, which weigh in at around 340 grams per shoe, meaning I would be lifting far less weight with each footstep than if I had been wearing leather boots. During the walk, the weather was mostly fine to start with but we did have a morning of heavy rain on the fifth day when I got my first chance to try out my theory. My feet were very quickly wet but after the initial 'strangeness' of water filling the shoes I soon got used to it and could see the excess water draining through the top of my La Sportiva Ultra Raptors. The idea is that the rain, though it can easily get in, can also easily drain out and it appeared that this is exactly what was happening. Once the rain stopped, my feet very quickly began to dry out and during the afternoon, which turned dry and sunny, my trails shoes also dried out. This was a revelation as it meant that I was going to finish the day with dry feet and shoes. 
The ultimate test came on the last day of the Pennine Way, a marathon 25 mile yomp across the Cheviot Hills from Byrness to the end of the walk in Kirk Yetholm. Shortly after setting off at 5am, the rain started and continued for most of the 10.25 hours that it took me to finish the hike. It rained heavily virtually all day and my feet were wet almost from the start. I squelched my way through wet peat bogs most of the day and waded through puddles that swamped the paved sections and when I dropped down off of the hills into the valley, my feet and lightweight shorts dried as I hiked along the tarmac into Kirk Yetholm. The Ultra Raptors provided me with 268 miles of quick drying comfort and this method of dealing with walking in rain will now be my default setting. I much preferred simply getting wet and then quickly drying without having to put on wet boots each day or having wet trousers flapping around my legs . At the end of each day on the trail in the campsites, other walkers tended to their blisters while I suffered no such problems. 



Of course, this approach will not be suitable for walking in colder, winter conditions but this could easily be resolved by the addition of short, goretex socks or returning to leather, goretex boots. The Ultra Raptors were a delight to wear being extremely comfortable and lightweight with a sturdy, grippy sole and I liked them so much that when I returned back home, I returned to the outdoor shop where I had purchased them and bought a second pair that I found reduced by 30% in the sales.